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four different types of water shutoffs

Different types of water shutoff valves and locations.

Water Shutoff

Let’s say you’re in the middle of dinner…. suddenly you hear the sound of running water coming form upstairs… but everyone is at the dinner table…. what could it be? You run upstairs to investigate only to find water a water puddle in the hall, the carpet is wall and carpet is soaked. Did someone leave the bathtub on and its overflowing? No. Is the sink on? No. It seems that the water is coming from the wall! What do you do? Gotta shut that water off. Where’s the valve? It’s in the garage! Oh man, now you have to move the stacked up boxes of Christmas ornaments, after you get past the toys and bikes. It only took five minutes, that won’t be that bad right? Wrong, that could have put about 500 gallons of water in your home. Thats right, a 3/4 inch water pipe from your local municipality moves 110 gallons of water per minute. A 1/2 inch pipe is only about 50 gallons per minute, but after only 5 minutes, 250 gallons of water on you floor, in your home…. that’s a lot of water!

Water shut-off locations in or near your home are important to be aware of! In the event of an emergency, the last thing you want to do is be searching for it.

Each home can be a little bit different as to the location. Your home might have an easy to locate valve with a label or you might have to use the water meter valve.

Whatever the case, make sure you have this identified and accessible. A lot of times, I find them in the garage along the side wall or back wall. In older homes, they are often found under the kitchen sink or in a hall closet.

Sometimes they were installed in a crawlspace or not at all, and the best thing to do is shut off at the meter valve. In order to shut off at the meter, its best to use the Tee handle wrench. It can be difficult trying to reach in the meter housing with a channel lock plier or adjustable wrench, where damage is a risk! By using the proper tool, shutoff can be achieved easily and quickly!

For those in the garage or closet, make keep the area clear so you can get to it without having to remove a lot of items. This could be the difference between a little water on the floor and major flooding damage inside the home.

If you get your home inspection done with A Premier Home Inspection, look for the shutoff location labeled in your inspection report! Then take the necessary steps to be ready if the need ever arises. If you’re having trouble locating the shutoff, give me a call and I could drop by as courtesy when I’m in your area!

 

 

clogged dryer vent could lead to house fire

Clogged dryer vents are a safety hazard for homeowners’. To reduce the chances of a clogged dryer vent, homeowners’ can empty the lint trap at the clothes dryer with every use. It’s also a good idea to check the vent at the exterior of the home. Simply lift the louver, look into the vent. In the photo above, you can see there is a plastic cage that shouldn’t be there because it stops the excess lint from flying out. Dryer vent safety is an important aspect of owning a home, and proper maintenance goes hand in hand.

Make sure the duct doesn’t get crushed when you push the dryer back into position! To ensure there is proper airflow from the dryer to the exterior, don’t crush the vent pipe! A lot of people use the flimsy, flexible, foil or plastic type vent ducting for the dryer and these are subject to crushes and kinks.  Especially at turns and directly behind the dryer, since there isn’t much room work there normally! Instead of just bending it around, use a rigid 90 degree elbow that won’t restrict the flow of air.

Vertical runs of dryer ducting can cause problems, and if you have a vertical run you may want to install a booster fan for the vent duct to make sure that the hot, moist air gets to where it needs to go…. and that’s to the EXTERIOR!

It’s important to make sure the connections are tight and sealed so that same air doesn’t escape somewhere else where it isn’t supposed to be…. and that’s in a wall/ceiling/crawlspace!!!

National Requirements

The recommendations outlined below reflect International Residential Code (IRC) SECTION M1502 CLOTHES DRYER EXHAUST guidelines:

M1502.5 Duct construction.
Exhaust ducts shall be constructed of minimum 0.016-inch-thick (0.4 mm) rigid metal ducts, having smooth interior surfaces, with joints running in the direction of air flow. Exhaust ducts shall not be connected with sheet-metal screws or fastening means which extend into the duct.

Length

This means that the flexible, ribbed vents used in the past should no longer be used. They should be noted as a potential fire hazard if observed during an inspection.
M1502.6 Duct length.
The maximum developed length of a clothes dryer exhaust duct shall not exceed 35 feet from the dryer location to the wall or roof termination. The maximum length of the duct shall be reduced 2.5 feet for each 45-degree (0.8 rad) bend, and 5 feet for each 90-degree (1.6 rad) bend. That maximum length of the exhaust duct does not include the transition duct.

M1502.2 Duct termination.

this rigid dryer vent pipe transitions to a flexible plastic type duct work that terminates in a crawlspace. This is definitely not terminated at the exterior. It also has a conncetion that is in a concealed/ not readily accessible location.

flexible plastic vent that terminates in a crawlspace

Exhaust ducts shall terminate on the outside of the building or shall be in accordance  with the dryer manufacturer’s installation instructions. The ducts shall terminate not  less than 3 feet in any direction from openings into buildings.

Exhaust duct terminations shall be equipped with a backdraft damper.  Screens shall not be installed at the duct termination.

 

 

Proper Size

The vent duct must be properly sized.

M1502.3 Duct size.
The diameter of the exhaust duct shall be as required by the clothes dryer’s listing and the manufacturer’s installation instructions.
Look for the exhaust duct size on the data plate.
M1502.4 Transition ducts.
Transition ducts shall not be concealed within construction. Flexible transition ducts used to connect the dryer to the exhaust duct system shall be limited to single lengths not to exceed 8 feet, and shall be listed and labeled in accordance with UL 2158A.
Required support for lengthy ducts is covered by the following section:

M1502.4.2 Duct installation.
Exhaust ducts shall be supported at intervals not to exceed 12 feet and shall be secured in place. The insert end of the duct shall extend into the adjoining duct or fitting in the direction of airflow. Duct joints shall be sealed in accordance with Section M1601.4.1 and shall be mechanically fastened. Ducts shall not be joined with screws or similar fasteners that protrude more than 1/8-inch into the inside of the duct.

Typically, the inspector may not know each specific manufacturer’s recommendations or local codes and may not be able to confirm the dryer vent’s compliance to them, but will be able to point out issues that may need to be corrected.

Clothes dryer fire safety outreach materialshttps://www.usfa.fema.gov › prevention › outreach › clothes_dryers

If you’re looking for a home inspection in Virginia Beach, call 747.797.4240. Schedule with the best home inspector and A Premier Home Inspection!

Insulation deteriorated

Deteriorated insulation doesn’t help your home and may have detrimental effects.

During my home inspections, I often come across insulation in the crawlspace. Usually, clients are trying to increase energy efficiency in their home, which is understandable.  Sometimes this insulation causes more harm than good. It does help with energy when in good condition, but doesn’t stop or block the airflow.

Incorrectly installed insulation that has deteriorated over time could be trapping moisture against the subfloor(bottom of your floor). Mold can form there and you would never know it without removing the insulation to check!

Venting

Crawlspace vents should be opened during the spring, summer and into the fall and closed during the winter. In Virginia, we have high levels of humidity, so instead of providing a dry air ventilating that space, the humid air is introduced and trapped in the crawlspace. Overall, this negatively affects the crawlspace.

Annual Checks

Be sure the insulation is in good condition and installed properly.

insulation wrong direction

insulation must be installed correctly, paper backing should face conditioned space

Ensure air isn’t leaking from the crawlspace into the home for better results.

Maintain a proper vapor barrier on the floor of the crawlspace to help prevent moisture from wicking up into the wood structure.

Remove all construction materials, especially wood products that draw termites or other wood-destroying insects(WDI).
If you don’t/can’t get in there yourself, have your crawlspace inspected annually by a professional.

Safety

While insulating different areas of your home can be great for energy efficiency, it must be installed properly for safety and effectiveness!
The insulation pictured above is in a crawlspace and is installed improperly. The paper backing should be facing the conditioned space. In this case, it’s on the floor above the crawlspace and facing the wrong direction.
The backing can easily catch and spread fire rapidly!
The same holds true in your attic when you see insulation above the ceiling, the paper backing should be against the drywall and not be seen. Of course, there is insulation that does not have the paperback and then it wouldn’t matter.

I hope you found the information helpful! To schedule your inspection with us, call 757.797.4240 or visit www.premierinspects.com

 

electrical safety tips for home

Facts and Statistics

Thank you for taking the time to read about electrical safety tips for homes!  According to the latest statistics from ESFI(Electrical Safety Foundation International) , there are about 51,000 home electrical fires each year. They cause nearly 500 deaths, over 1400 injuries and 1.3 billion in property damages.  Electrical distribution systems are the 3rd leading cause of home fires, whereas arc faults are responsible for 28,000 fires killing and injuring hundreds of people, causing over $700 million in property damages. The US Consumer Product Safety Commission(CPSC) reports that electrical receptacles cause 5,400 fires every year, leading to 40 deaths and over 100 injuries. 60% of home fire deaths are the result of non working smoke detectors!!

Safety Tips

  1. Install smoke detectors on every level of your home, inside sleeping areas, and outside of sleeping areas
  2. Test smoke detectors, AFCI and GFCI monthly to ensure they are working properly
  3. Establish an emergency evacuation plan to get your family out of the home in an emergency
  4. use light bulbs that match the recommendation of the fixture
  5. install tamper resistant outlets, especially if you have young children, to prevent shocks and burns
  6. watch for signs of electrical problems, such as dim and/or flickering lights, unusual sizzling or buzzing noises from electrical system/components and circuit breakers that trip frequently
  7. use extension cords for temporary items and never with air conditioners or space heaters
  8. avoid overloading outlets, consider having more outlets installed if you find overloading common
  9. know where your electrical panel is and how to operate the breakers. In the event of electrical fire, secure the power before using  your ABC extinguisher
  10. NEVER USE WATER ON AN ELECTRICAL FIRE!!!

More Safety Tips

Work Safely

Turn the power (at the circuit breaker) off if you plan to work on anything that has electricity going to it. This is the best way to make sure there is no power going to that equipment.

Check your outlets

Warm outlets are not a good sign. If an outlet feels warm, or frequently trips the breaker, you should call an electrician to evaluate the situation. Warm outlets could be a sign of loose connection, defective equipment and can lead to fire, shocks or burns.

Check for GFCI in rooms with water service, such as the kitchen, basement and bathroom. The garage and exterior should also have GFCI’s present, because they shut off the power to that outlet or circuit when it detects a shock hazard.  If your home is older, it may not have these and I recommend getting them installed by a qualified electrician.

Only one large appliance per outlet, so the circuit doesn’t become overloaded. If you are going to be absent for a length of time, unplug the appliance to save energy and make sure there is not a chance of arcing/sparking. Keep the cords away from sinks and bathtubs. Keep pets and children away from the cords to prevent injury.

Lighting

Make sure your light bulbs are tight in their sockets, loose bulbs can cause sparks. Unplug a light or turn off the power to that fixture prior to changing the bulbs.

Check the cords for damage, make sure they are not frayed or kinked, and if they are get rid of them. Don’t nail or staple the cord in place, tape is the best solution for this. Plug ends should not be loose, either on the cord or in the outlet. If either is the case, you should replace it.

Outdoors, make sure you prune trees back from power lines, they should not touch. Keep ladders away from power lines when working around the exterior of the home and assume all(especially fallen) power lines are live and dangerous. CALL the power company and block off the area to keep people away!

Checking and paying attention to these items of your home may help keep your family and your home safer from electrical hazards.

 

https://www.esfi.org/resource/home-electrical-fires-184

https://www.cpsc.gov/

https://www.ameriprise.com/auto-home-insurance/aah/learning-center/home-and-renters/home-safety/electrical-safety-tips-for-homeowners/